I decided not to take my board in but instead try some underwater surfing and took my camera along to try and get some footage. There were big regular lines coming in and a stiff offshore wind sending plumes off spray into the air as I put on my old fins and my mask and backed into the shore break.
It turns out I am no George Greenough! For those of you not familiar with his work, check out Crystal Voyager, a classic 1975 surf film, George pioneered filming inside the barrel and there is a long ambient section set to Echoes by Pink Floyd that will blow you're mind!
Check it out on Youtube
I managed to take a few poundings in the shore break (I'm still getting the sand out) and very few even passable shots, certainly no decent footage! I did manage to catch a few waves underwater which was fun, but another lesson was learnt. Don't use your favourite free diving mask! I took an underwater wipe-out (a first), and the mask got torn off and immediately lost. With that kind of swell running there's a lot of water moving around there was no chance of recovering it.
Still it was a lovely day with rainbows forming in the spray behind the waves filling the air with colour. I need to find some way of preventing water droplets on my lens above water as all my attempts to film them ended up blurred.
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